OT 25 year old TX - exposed need to develop suggestions?

Pasvorn Boonmark pasvorn at boonmark.net
Tue Oct 13 12:46:32 EDT 2009


Ann,

IMHO, scanning by yourself is the best way.  However, it will be
tedious because you will have to adjust the curve probably
individually.

If you and your friend are adventurous, would you like to send a roll
for me to try?

I have Rodinal, and HC-110.  I also have an old scanner. ;)

-Pasvorn

On Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 9:36 AM, ann sanfedele <annsan at nyc.rr.com> wrote:
> Well - between the chemical smells , my eyes, and my laziness I think I'll
> just let her take the film to a lab.
> (one role being a guinea pig)
> I told her I'd ask the list about it.   20 years ago I'd have thought it was
> fun too, Anthony... and would have had
> the stamina to do it....
>
> No more, alas.
>
> ann
>
> Anthony Farr wrote:
>
>>> Two words - Base Fog
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Three more words - latent image regression.  So don't be tempted to
>> reduce development.  In fact the severely low density difference
>> between elvated base+fog and reduced highlight density calls for
>> increased development and to hell with fog.  You can reduce that later
>> with Farmer's Reducer (potassium ferricyanide and fixer).  Farmer's
>> can restore a "normal" looking base+fog before too much reduction of
>> highlight density happens (if you get it right).  Using the two part
>> method would be safer if you're not well practised in using Farmer's.
>> Instead of combining the ferri and the fixer, you do the reduction in
>> ferri alone, the excess density will turn milky instead of clear, as
>> the silver is rehalogenated but not cleared, because there's no fixer
>> in it.  If you go too far you can restore the density, as much or as
>> little as you want, by redeveloping it before you fix it.
>>
>> Another technique is to completely rehalogenate the foggy negative in
>> potassium ferricyanide (no fixer), and then redevelop it "to taste",
>> allowing you to use a harder or softer developer than the first time
>> around to fine-tune the contrast and fog level.  You can do this in
>> room light without fear of fogging because the negative density is
>> restricted to those parts that were developed in the initial
>> processing.  In fact you need light to re-expose the rehalogenated
>> silver.  You can theoretically do this forever up until you fix, but
>> remember that increasing the wet time usually increases grain.
>>
>> I loved this kind of darkroom black art.  I have some neglected
>> undeveloped films somewhere that might need this technique.  Someday
>> soon.....
>>
>> regards, Anthony
>>
>>  "Of what use is lens and light
>>   to those who lack in mind and sight"
>>                                              (Anon)
>>
>>
>>
>> 2009/10/13 Joseph McAllister <pentaxian at mac.com>:
>>
>>>
>>> On Oct 13, 2009, at 01:12 , ann sanfedele wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> What are the chances anything worthwhile could come out of them?
>>>> Basically, they are pictures of her oldest daughter
>>>> (I bet there is more than that in there)
>>>> Any suggestions about processing them?  I used to do all my own stuff,
>>>> as
>>>> some of you know, but never worked
>>>> on film that had been shot so long before developing.
>>>>
>>>> T I A
>>>>
>>>> ann
>>>>
>>>
>>> Two words - Base Fog
>>>
>>> A contrast killer.
>>>
>>> Joseph McAllister
>>> pentaxian at mac.com
>>>
>>>
>>
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