540 flash for wedding photography
Mark Roberts
msroberts01 at ysu.edu
Wed Jun 6 16:41:32 EDT 2007
Scott Loveless wrote:
>Hey, Mark! You enlightened us over the weekend about using P-TTL flash
>with the camera on "manual". Care to re-enlighten? I'm afraid the
>booze and lack of sleep has purged that memory from the old noggin.
You talkin' to me or the other Mark? (You weren't alone with regards to
booze and lack of sleep.)
Anyway, here's how you do it:
Set camera to manual exposure.
Attach flash with bounce card.
Set flash to P-TTL auto.
Set shutter speed the slowest speed you feel safe hand-holding; if
you're using a zoom, assume the longest focal length it reaches.
Set the aperture a stop or two down from wide open -- there's something
of a judgment call here because it depends on the focal length of the
lens your using, how much DOF you want and how much ambient light there
is.
The result of the above procedure should be that the meter in the
camera will show underexposure pretty much everywhere you point it (in
locations you're going to be shooting the wedding). If it regularly
shows more than two stops of underexposure or if it shows overexposure
anywhere you'll need to change shutter speed, aperture or ISO. You
often have to compromise here...
So now you've got a slow shutter speed you can hand-hold, an aperture
that gives you the DOF you want and exposure that varies from perfect
to "about-two-stops-under" everywhere you're shooting. The P-TTL flash
will automatically provide whatever amount of fill is necessary to make
the overall exposure good. (Your manual exposure setting shouldn't show
overexposure anywhere because, obviously, the flash can't subtract
ambient light when there's too much, it can only provide extra light
when there's too little.)
You can experiment with dialing in a little underexposure to the flash,
to see if it suits your equipment setup and/or taste.
This setup won't deliver *perfect* results all the time but it will
give you very usable results almost all the time. When you're in really
dark spots (two stops under on the meter) the flash will be
contributing more of the total exposure than you'd ideally like. And
when you're in bright areas it will contribute nothing. But you'll
almost always get something you can use. This is what you want for
weddings because, for most shots, you get only one chance.
I learned this technique from a local wedding pro who does high end
(*very* expensive) weddings. He shoots mostly PJ style (but with the
usual requisite posed shots). He usually works alone unless he's
providing video services as well. He does extraordinary work and makes
a ton of money doing it. He's won scads of awards, which he refuses to
display in his studio: He'll only display prints of his work there.
We met when an "Internet Directory Service" tried to scam him and gave
me and my web site as a reference even though I had nothing to do with
them. He called their bluff by calling me :) I worked a couple of
weddings with him to see if I might do some work for him. I decided
against getting into wedding photography but I learned a *lot* from the
experience.
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